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Jacksonville is the kind of city people often underestimate until they spend real time in it. On a map, it looks like a single sprawling footprint on the St. Johns River, but on the ground it feels like several different places stitched together, each with its own pace, history, and housing realities. One afternoon you can stand under mossy oaks in a century-old neighborhood, and later the same day be on the riverfront, then at the beach with salt still in the air and shrim